We stayed 7 nights at Caiman Lodge in the Caiman Ecological Refuge. The enlightened owners of this huge cattle ranch have developed it into a wildlife haven, where Jaguars and other wildlife thrive. Working together with partners Oncafari, they have now a large population of Jaguars living freely in a protective environment. October is a great time to visit as it is the height of the dry season, with most wildlife activity taking place around the few remaining waterholes.

My thanks to Fred Tavares of Brasil Aventuras for putting together the whole visit, and for guiding us so expertly. Also thanks to our local guide, Mario Nelson of Oncafari, for finding us so many spectacular Jaguars!