We stayed 11 nights at Hotel Pantanal Norte in Porto Jofre. Undoubtedly the Jaguar hotspot of the Pantanal, wildlife viewing here is done from speedboats on the huge Cuiaba River and a number of its tributaries. Heading out twice daily, first thing in the morning and again mid-afternoon, we had a total of 21 boat trips, and saw 20 different Jaguars, during a total of 40 Jaguar encounters! The area has lots of other wildlife to see; it is particularly good for Giant River Otters, Yacare Caiman, Capybara, and there is loads of bird life. Unfortunately the success of the area has led to it becoming over busy with boats, which are in danger of disrupting the wildlife and spoiling the experience for visitors.

My thanks to Fred Tavares of Brasil Aventuras for putting together the whole visit, and for guiding us so expertly.